|
|
|
Excellence as standard
Food: 1877, Canning Circus |
|
|
WHEN it comes to projects of grand proportions, Mark Osborne and Tony Baxter don’t do things by halves.
The schoolboy friends and business partners have put their experience and expertise together to finally launch their dream - Restaurant 1877.
The pair approached the owners of the former Ben Bowers restaurant that stood on the same site up until last year-and the sheer scale of what they’ve created in its place is an inspiration before you even sit down. |
Inviting floor-to-ceiling windows on the upper ground floor as you approach, solid oak wood floors throughout and truly magnificent glass chandeliers set the tone-and the expectation level.
Taking its name from the building’s heritage where it stands, as stamped on the front façade on the Canning Circus junction, 1877 opened just three weeks ago-but it’s already adapting its menu to diners’ tastes.
And if this thoroughly pleasant experience was anything to go by, Mark and Tony won’t so much be attempting to reach, but rather be setting the standards of fine dining in the city in 2009 and beyond.
From start to finish, this was unanimously the closest the Journal’s critics have come to perfection in the last 12 months.
Seared diver scallops with anchovy and truffle dressing and roast chicken and stuffing cannelloni immediately raised eyebrows all round for its flavour and texture oozing from every mouthful. And it blew away any misconceptions about the value of the slightly inflated price.
For main, Roast Pave of Dove Dale Beef was for one critic simply the best cut experienced of any restaurant in the city, the Horseradish Jus complementing it perfectly. The signature dish of wild halibut and braised ox cheek in red wine sauce mesmerised the other. The balance and presentation of the first two courses was simply unflappable.
And whilst the peanut brittle with the chocolate and olive oil pave was a questionable sticky choice for dessert it still had enough flavour and substance to work.
Even with front of house service still being tweaked, for such a high standard it was a remarkably smooth transition from course to course throughout.
Perfection takes time but seemingly not here, the Nottingham Restaurant Awards certainly has a new contender to deal with. |
|
A step short of perfection
Food: Vienna Restaurant, City Centre |
|
|
ALL the best restaurants rely on four essential factors that are the keys to their success - delicious food, inspiring surroundings, high-class service and a unique sense of identity that binds the whole experience together. |
|
The newly opened Vienna Restaurant may boast one of the best locations in town, in the ex-home of the Hard Rock Cafe where Market Square meets King Street, and they might even boast an impressive 75% when it comes to the above criteria for greatness - but there is a certain something missing that lets them fall short of absolute perfection.
First things first though. Let’s focus on the positives - of which there are enough to fill a menu of their own.
Everything from the swanky staircase entrance to the high ceilings and modern bar area as you enter are designed to make you feel truly special upon entry. All the best restaurants pull off the impression of grandeur with ease and Vienna tick this box several times over.
The service, as you’d expect, matches the impeccable nature of the interiors and accentuates a delightful vibe that walks a tightrope between the mellow intimacy of the seated areas and the upbeat savvy of the contemporary bar.
The stage is set for what should be the final piece of the puzzle, the ‘piece de resistance’ - the food.
One cannot doubt the quality of the cooking, and the ingenuity of the chef who crafted a menu full of innovation and enticing delights.
Individually, the majority of the menu’s ingredients are pulled off with gusto, but many of the dishes promise to be more than the sum of their parts. Despite the best efforts of presentation, they often fall just short of their destiny.
Don’t get me wrong. This is a great place to eat food, and true food-lovers will find plenty to appreciate.
However, like the naive solo artist finding their way in a maze of musical inspiration, it may take a few attempts for this restaurant to find their true voice - and it will certainly be worth waiting for.
|
|
Greek and unique
Food: Greek Steakhouse, Newark |
|
LOCAL businessman Michael Ellinas and Newark’s top restaurateur Suba Miah have teamed up to bring a totally different dining experience to the East Midlands.
With a new Greek chef formerly of the Hilton Hotel Hyde Park, Newark now has a top quality steakhouse and a Greek a la carte restaurant, specialising in single breed beef such as Dexter, Lincolnshire Red and Angus - all bred and sourced by award winning butcher Doncaster and Son.
Our chef has modified many of the traditional Greek dishes to a la carte standard using locally sourced produce wherever possible.
The kitchen has been expanded to provide charcoal grilling facilities for that distinctive smell and taste, only possible by cooking on lumpwood charcoal.
Dine in style in the restaurant, situated on Castlegate in Newark-on-Trent, or choose one of our vaulted cellars for a unique dining experience or enjoy a light lunch with a glass of fine wine in our Mediterranean style courtyard.
Our philosophy is to provide a friendly yet unobtrusive service, along with the finest steaks, Greek with a twist dishes and the best quality wins and spirits.
The Greek Steakhouse is open Monday to Saturday from Midday to 3pm and 6pm to 10pm - Sundays are open Midday to 4pm and 7pm to 10pm.
|
|
Surpassing Expectations
Food: Lord Nelson, Burton Joyce |
|
|
LIVING up to expectations is always difficult.
And it’s twice as hard if you’ve built up an impressive reputation in a very short space of time and behold a plethora of awards for your efforts. |
|
Which is why the Lord Nelson at Burton Joyce, which re-opened in August, already had big things expected of it.
The next project from the Moleface Pub Company behind the transformation of the Larwood and Voce in West Bridgford, it seemed a wise choice of location for an appreciative local target market.
After all, with the Larwood’s best local produce menu and best pub food gongs at this year’s Nottingham Restaurant Awards-it was a reputation that simply cannot be sniffed at.
And with the awards’ Young Chef of the year Nichola Thompson promptly dispatched from the Larwood to take up as Head Chef the expectation bar was hitting new heights.
The result? Impressive. And all undertaken in a setting that maintains its identity as essentially a village pub. The suspect wallpaper in the bar area apart, the refurb has worked.
And for a busy Thursday evening, the restaurant still remained remarkably relaxed in atmosphere.
Lord Nelson himself was noted for his ability to inspire and bring out the best in his men. Paralells weren’t completely out of place here. Waiting staff and chefs actually smiled and were happy to chat. You’d think in other gastro establishments it’s banned.
£15.50 for a main course may be batting somewhat above your average pub price. But when it involves the largest piece of fish you’ve ever seen on a dinner plate and fellow diners around you gasp in astonishment at its size, you know value for money hasn’t been completely forgotten.
The inflated price however was just a just a footnote. Both the salmon starter and my fellow diner’s half pint o' prawn cocktail were as tasty as they were well presented. . On return local pigeon on toast will have to be experienced.
For mains, grilled sirloin and chips in dripping and horseradish and pork belly with apple sauce got the tastebuds rumbling but slow cooked duck with black pudding was chosen and it was served up close to perfection.
Once my fellow diner had got over the size of her fish it served up as a tasty traditional combination with chips and mushy peas.
Dessert however took pub food to a new level. The sticky toffee pudding managed to strike the balance and not be too rich, the strawberry and almond tart, soft and scrumptious.
The phrase ‘go and see what the fuss is about’ would be an understatement. Horatio would have been more than happy to eat here himself.
www.lordnelsonpubandkitchen.co.uk
|
|
Three chances to win a meal for two at the Curry Lounge
Competition: Curry Lounge, Up. Parliament St. |
|
|
THE CURRY Lounge is riding high on the back of a huge wave of publicity after kitchen celebrity Gordon Ramsey’s visit and you have a chance to win a free meal for two at the renowned Indian restaurant.
All entrants - win or lose - will also receive a 10% discount on their next meal. |
Ramsey’s visit transformed Upper Parliament Street’s Indian hotspot from a good restaurant to one of the hottest tables in town.
Voted the Best Indian Restaurant 2008 in the East Midlands by the Customer Excellence Awards, Raz is confident that it’s the small things that have taken the Curry Lounge to the next level.
He said: “Gordon’s program and hints put us on the map. He told us to stick to what we do better than other restaurants - home cooked Indian food.”
“We rely on fresh, seasonal produce and cooking every dish to order – without leaving people unnecessarily waiting or compromising on quality.”
“Feedback from our customers has been excellent. Every dish they order, they tell us how fresh it is and they can smell and taste every herb and spice. When we say authentic, we mean authentic.”
“Having a top class meal out is more than just good food and service. Guests expect that. It's often about the little things that make you unique. A team that really goes that extra mile, high quality experience, making them feel at home and being friendly without being OTT.”
“Our motto? Treat our guests as we want to be treated if we ever go out!”
To find out more about the Curry Lounge, or book a table, call 0115 941 8844 or visit www.currylounge.co.uk
For your chance to win one of three meals for two at The Curry Lounge, answer the following questions:
a) In which year did Gordon Ramsey visit and film his program at The Curry Lounge?
b) What is the capital city of India?
Send your answer by email to editorial@nottinghamjournal.com
Or alternatively on a postcard to: The Editor, Nottingham Journal, Unit 3, Grove House, Bridgford Road, West Bridgford, Nottingham NG2 6AP
All entrants agree to receive subsequent offers from Curry Lounge when entering the competition.
Closing date for entries is 5pm on Wednesday September 24.
Please ensure a contact name, address and phone number are provided.
The first three correctly answered e-mails or postcards pulled out of the hat on the closing date will receive the prize. Winners receive a meal for two including a bottle of wine up to the value of £50 at a time of their choice - excluding Friday and Saturday evening.
The winner will be notified within 48 hours of the closing date by phone. Only one entrant per household. The Editor’s decision is final. |
|
Perfectly Fyne fayre
Food: Loch Fyne Fish Restaurant, City Centre |
|
|
FISH restaurants always play a game of pros and cons.
On the one hand, they benefit from boasting that essential unique niche that every bar or restaurant craves. |
However, to achieve it they sacrifice the flexibility of a venue that appeals to a broad spectrum of appetites, risking turning away a whole party of hungry customers simply down to one single fishy veto.
The Loch Fyne restaurant, on King Street in the City Centre, certainly cannot be accused of being bashful. They set their stall out literally, and upon entering the smell of fresh fish – which by the way, can also be bought from the fish counter at rates challenging the highest quality mongers – is one that immediately reminds you of what’s ahead.
The menu does offer limited respite for those looking for an alternative to food that swims. The herb-filled sausages are one of the best ‘bangers and mash’ I’ve ever tasted and the sirloin steak is a true treat that would easily convince you it was the kitchen’s speciality.
However, to truly judge this joint, you have to try the kitchen’s true passion.
Everything from eye-catching lobsters and crabs to cauldrons of mussels or simple fish cakes and pan-fried bream are offered alongside a mouth-watering range of simple but effective sides.
The poached smoked haddock, served with a mustard sauce on a bed of creamy mash, is a delightfully prepared dish that infuses the flavoured of the loch beautifully with the flavours of the soil.
Sides of seasonal vegetables are slightly on the measly side, however, the price reflects the freshness and quality of the produce extremely well, and will not break the budget compared to other top of the range restaurants in the city.
Above all, the meal is perfectly accompanied by the extremely helpful and friendly service who are always more than happy to provide the story behind each dish – almost making you feel as if you are about to tuck into a freshly caught meal by the side of the iconic Loch.
Simply put, Loch Fyne is a fish-lovers paradise, and has more than enough quality to justify intrepid punters to dive in and give it a whirl. |
|
Parisian passion
Food: Café Rouge, City Centre |
|
|
BRIDLESMITH Gate is the city’s home of the best in culture and couture - and if you’re going to shop as if on the streets of Paris then you might as well dine like it too.
The recently renovated |
|
exterior of French cuisine chain, Café Rouge, blends beautifully with the aura of the cobbled streets and boutique alleyways surrounding it whilst the inside transports you in a manner nothing short of a hop on the Eurostar can achieve.
Most restaurants chains struggle to keep their individuality behind an endless conveyor belt of tacky replicated props – this delightful hotspot succeeds in avoiding the trap, with an added hint of city-break holiday spirit.
The heartbeat of the restaurant is the buzz of an authentic European café and the staff are always active, but never too busy to be helpful or answer any questions you may have. There is an air of comfortable elegance – at any time of day.
Those expecting a virtuoso display of French cooking may be slightly disappointed – this is after all still a chain – but you will certainly not be spoilt for choice.
Aside from the main A La Carte menu there is an additional two or three course Prix Fixe, perfect for a light lunch or pre-theatre, and even a breakfast menu to entice you into helping yourself to a fresh croissant and coffee before work.
The fancier dishes boast flavours from some of France’s most prominent regions including a hearty Beef Bourguignon, helped by an extremely rich red wine sauce, and a classic chicken, leek and mushroom dish – Poulet Breton.
Café Rouge also does the simple thing incredibly well. Their range of steak or baguettes with chips – French fries of course – equally hit the spot.
All the wines under the sun, or all the French ones anyway, can be ordered by the small or big glass and the reasonably priced bottle. The lagers are predominantly French, and thus bottled, but there is also the option for a half of draught Stella Artois should the mood take.
In short, this Café Rouge has pulled off a wonderful trick, making chain cooking feel and taste fresh, individual and authentic. Voila! |
|
|
|
|
|
