IN a world of style over substance, it’s a pleasant surprise to see a Tex-Mex diner turn the phrase on its head.
With a new menu that’s as enticingly authentic as it is delicious, the only disappointment at the city’s branch of Chiquitos is the uninspiring surroundings - but at least the kitchen gets the important part right.
Since taking up one of the Cornerhouse’s desirable slots late last year the restaurant has responded to their clientele’s wishes by transforming the look of their menu with some exciting new dishes to sit alongside old favourites. And as well as being friendly and helpful the staff are more than happy to go out of their way to point you in the right direction with a few recommendations of their own.
Given the choice, try and secure one of the booths that adjoin the vast window affording you some delightful views as the sun sets on the reflection of the Council House off the Royal Concert Hall.
You will also be spared the worst of the unfortunate décor that aims for rustic Mexican charm but lands closer to tacky cowboy saloon children’s party, complete with Mexican flag bunting hanging from the ceiling.
There may be a market for this casual vibe, but it fails to do justice alongside an impressive kitchen performance.
When it comes to food, Chiquitos shove their nose up at the idea of haute cuisine starters. You won’t find any delicate food sculptures amounting to little more than a couple of mouthfuls here. Instead there’s filling fistfuls of barbecued chicken wings or hearty bowls of chicken, bacon and avocado salad that fall only slightly short of main meal portions.
The mains themselves continue to deliver on the promise of the starters. You’ll find a great deal of grill classics, from steaks to burgers, grilled to perfection alongside a range of tangy, spicy and original sauces. The Cuervo Tequila sauces are a must-try.
If you are looking for something a little adventurous then the menu caters well with citrus marinade pork fajitas, or sizzling pans of king prawn or duck that let you take the DIY approach to Mexican cuisine.
The dessert menu marks the departure of hot n’ spicy and the arrival of cool and sweet. Almost all the choices come with refreshing vanilla ice cream and a fresh selection of summer berries to accompany your inevitably devilish choice.
It’s hard to go wrong with the Choc’ito Fudge Cake but if you are looking for something a bit different then try the rich Pecan Pie which is still light enough to practically melt in your mouth and brings out the best in the fruit accompaniment.
Ultimately, this Mexican diner is one of the best kept secrets in Notts and performs well above expectations for a chain restaurant. With the majority of mains priced at north of a tenner, and very few bottles of wine under £15 it isn’t cheap but there is value to be found, especially in the starters.
Simply put, Chiquitos is a makeover away from securing the city’s Mexican food crown.